Sunday, June 5, 2011

Astypalea island, The Dodecanese

Astypalea belongs to the Dodecanese islands at the south east Aegean. It is situated 117 nautical miles south-east of the port of Piraeus, 96 miles from the island of Rhodes, 23 miles west of the island of Kos and another 23 miles from the nearest of the Cyclades as it is the westernmost of the Dodecanese islands.
 

The surface of the island covers 97 square kilometres and its highest peak is 482 meters. The island's permanent population numbers 1300 islanders that inhabit 4 major settlements: Astypalaea or Hora, Livadi, Maltezana and Vathi.


















The coastline of Astypalea is rocky and wild with beautiful coves and beaches. The shape of the island resembles an egg-timer narrowing in the middle to a strip just 10 m wide which connects the two sections. This strip is known as 'Steno', which divides Astypalea into the eastern Mesa Nisi (middle island) and the western 'Ekso Nisi' (the outer island). To the southeast are several little islands: Hondro, Ligno, Aghia Kyriaki which has a church dedicated to Saint Kyriaki, Kounoup and Koutsomytis with a lovely swimming beach. A little further away are the Tria Nisya, Syrna and Adelfi and to the west are the small islands of Pontikoussa, Ktenia, Katsagreli and Ofidoussa . Going north you will come to Fokionisia. The capital of Astypalea is Hora which as well is the main port of the island. Hora is built on a hill which protruding from the sea forms two bays, Livadia and Pera Yialos . The top of the hill is dominated by a fortress built from dark local stone which creates a beautiful contrast to the glowing white domes of the churches Evangelistria and Aghios Georgios that was built there. At the base of the hill are white houses with their traditional blue doors and windows and wooden railings around the balconies. Dotted amongst the houses are churches and domed chapels. On the crest of the hill are the eight windmills, regarded as the crowning glory of Hora. It is well worth visiting the traditional coffee house near to the Town Hall before reaching the crossroads to climb up the hill to the Fortress. Each road here will take you to a church like the Monastery of Panaghia Portaitisa on the Livadia and the Megali Panaghia Church on the Pera Yialos. 

Astypalaia is an island of significant historical heritage, wonderful traditional images, unparalleled natural beauty and home to very hospitable islanders.



Mythology would have it that Astypalea and Europa were the daughters of the king of the Phoenicians and Perimedes. From her marriage to Poseidon, Astypalea gave birth to the Argonaut Agcaeus and the King of Kos Eurypylus. The island was first inhabited during prehistoric times.  Among its residents were the Karres, who called the island Pyrra for its red colour, and the Minoans. During the Hellenistic period the Ptolemaic Pharaohs of Egypt had a port - staging post here and the island developed extensive maritime activities and became well known thanks to its wealth of fisheries (even being called Ichthyoessa) and its abundant agricultural produce. Because of its numerous, scented flowers and the fruit and vegetable grown here the ancients called it the Dining Table of the Gods.  During the period of Roman rule the island's ports were used as bases of operations against the pirates and for that reason the Romans granted the residents many privileges. During the Byzantine period the outbreak of piracy again changed the building structure of the islands with coastal settlements falling into demise, populations moving inland and fortresses being erected for protection. Following 1204 the island passed into Venetian hands and in particular the Quirini family - with the exception of a short period when it returned to the Byzantine Empire (1269-1310). The Quirini remained lords of the island until 1537 when it was seized by the Turks. Just like the other Dodecanese islands, it remained in Turkish hands until 1912 and then passed to the Italians only to be united with Greece in 1948.


sights of Astypalea

Ancient monuments and sites of archaeological interest
The Tallaras Baths in Maltezana are Hellenistic baths with mosaics unique in Greece with blue and terracotta colours. They are in a good state of repair and the compositions are interesting with the subject being the seasons of the year and the symbols of the zodiac.
The Monument to the French admiral Bignon, leader of the struggle against the pirates at the beginning of the 18th century, located near Schinonda.
There is a Heroes Monument in Hora.
At the mouth of Vathy Bay are the remains of a Minoan settlement and the ruins of a tower.
The remains of a Paleo-Christian Basilica from the 5th century with remarkable mosaics can be seen at Maltezana. The Church of Aghia Varvara has been built atop them with an Ionian capital in the door lintel. In the grounds of the church are monolithic columns and their bases. The meadow in front was once the site of the temple of Artemis.
Fortresses
The Venetian Quirini Fortress with the heraldic shield of the family. In architectural terms it belongs to the fortified settlement category where the outer walls of the houses are the curtain walls with small openings as murder holes. The home of the Quirini is built around the entrance on the eastern side and covers two storeys. Until 1956 the entire fortress was inhabited. Inside the fortress are two churches painted white with ornate bell towers. At the entrance is Panaghia Kastriani (Evangelistria) and at the end Aghios Georgios. The Panaghia Church was built in 1853 above the arched entrance to the fortress. Inside there is a founder's inscription dated 1413 and the heraldic shields of the Quirini. Aghios Georgios was built in 1790.
Ai Yanni Fortress stands opposite the monastery with the same name. It is a natural fortress and is said to have a secret entrance and passageway to the next hill. Barbarossa, the feared pirate, attacked here and annihilated the residents. According to tradition the fortress was impregnable. Ruins of buildings and cisterns have survived. It was perhaps here that the residents of the island took refuge during the difficult years of pirate raids that scourged the Aegean from the 7th century on. Access was difficult. 















Enviromental sights of Astypalea


The dam that ensures adequate quantities of water for the island.
Panormos Bay can be reached by crossing the mountainous massif of Mesa Nisi. The changes in landscape are enjoyable.
Vatses Bay (6 km SW) and Kaminakia Bay (9 km SW) with their beautiful beaches and crystal clear waters are worth visiting.
Agrelidi and Aghios Fokas Bays with the chapel with the same name on a rocky islet.
Caves
Drakou Cave is at Vathy with impressive stalactites and stalagmites. Get there from Vathy by caique or on foot (around 2 hours along dirt track).


beaches on  Astypalea

At Pera Yialos. From there by boat or car visit the beaches at Livadia (with sand and pebbles), Tzanaki, Moura, Pappou and Aghios Konstantinos (7km away) while more remote beaches are to be found at Vatses (8 km), Kaminakia (11 km), Aghios Ioannis (accessible by boat), Panormos (17 km) and Pachia Ammos (accessible by boat). There are also beaches at Marmari B and C, Schinonda, Karekli, Vrysi, Plakes (a beach with rocks) and Steno.

Astypalea is perfect for hiking. There are only few roads, hiking paths lead you into the remote parts of the island. The locals will gladly assist you in planning the trips.
The island is also the ideal place for lovers of all types of fishing since its waters are unique for the variety and quantity of fish while fans of wind-surfing can truly find what they are looking for here.


Apart from traditional forms of entertainment such as religious feasts which have been revived with great success over recent years, on the island one can find bars, clubs, summer and winter cinemas, restaurants serving local and international cuisine, cafes and traditional coffee houses.

traditional cuisine of Astypalea

"Poungia" (cheese pie made from kopanisti cheese and honey), preserved fruits (quince, fig, bitter orange, bergamot orange), turnovers, "rantista" (lentils cooked with finely grained dough and vinegar), stuffed vine, cabbage leaves or courgette flowers, various local cheeses such as "ladotyri", "myzithra", "chlori", a type of yoghurt called "xyalina", lobster with spaghetti, octopus balls, fish, goat stuffed with rice, liver finely chopped and cooked with spices known as 'lambrianos", yellow bread rolls "kitrinokouloura" with 'chlori' cheese and saffron and pies known as 'lambropittes".





















The island can be reached by ferry from Piraeus and Kalymnos and by airplane via Athens and Rhodes.