On the map, the 18km-long, butterfly-shaped island of Astypalea looks as if it is hiding. It is a mere speck in the Dodecanese group in the southern Aegean, and a five-hour ferry ride from Paros in the Cyclades. I arrived after midnight to encounter a man clutching a hotel sign, who offered to take me back to his pension in the island's main town of Chora.
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Independent
