Nemea is arguably the most exciting viticultural region in
Greece and one of the most vibrant in all of Europe. Easy to pronounce, easy to get to, within close proximity of some of the most breathtaking Greek antiquities, blessed with a dynamic local grape varietal, and brimming with history, wine-making traditions, and visionary wine makers, Nemea and its versatile wines hold the key to opening the whole Greek vineyard to foreign markets.Nemea is unique for many reasons, none more important, however, than the most basic: the indigenous vinis vinifera grape, Agiorgitiko, or St. George, which is perhaps the most multifaceted grape in the whole of Greece. Agiorgitiko takes its name from an old village right in the heart of the region. The Agiorgitiko grape produces wines with a deep, but never opaque, red-cherry color. The nose is usually intense but never too obvious, full with the aromas of red fruit, sweet, noble spices, and the odd hint of Mediterranean mountain herbs. It also possesses an unquestionable aromatic affinity to high-quality oak, making oak aging an important stylistic element for Nemea wines.
On the mouth, Agiorgitiko is medium to full bodied, broad in the middle palate, while tannins, even when extracted to a high degree, always taste ripe and alluring. Agiorgitiko needs at least 12% alcohol to start being expressive and can reach levels up to 14.5%, although most wines achieve a perfect balance within the range of 12.5% to 13.5%.
The interplay of acidity with the rest of the structure is very interesting.
A chemical analysis of Agiorgitiko wines would reveal relatively high levels of acid, but on the palate the wines rarely register as acidic. The acidity blends in with the wines’ sweeter, softer elements, supporting the whole and adding nerve, rather than drawing all the attention.
A MULTIFACETED GRAPE
Greek vintners describe Agiorgitiko as a multi-dynamic grape, because of the large number of wine styles that can be crafted, equally convincingly, from the variety. In every vintage, the first Agiorgitiko wines released are the rosés, which are fresh and light but show some density of fruit. Winemakers in the region have also begun to release young Agiorgitikos, which have not been aged in oak, in an effort to capture the purity of the primary fruit.
The classic Nemea, however, is a wine that has matured in the barrel for about a year; it is characterized by complex fruit, intensity and density on the palate but subtle style. The classic style has progressed in the last few decades. In the 1970s, for example, the genre was very soft. Producers increasingly wanted to add firmness, going for longer extractions of the grapes. One of the most modern approaches is what could be called New World Nemea wines, with high alcohol, very high concentration and intensity, marked new oak presence, and a very broad, tannic framework that demands aging.
But the grape’s limits do not stop there: More and more winemakers are experimenting with sweet Agiorgitiko, while the last two decades have seen the rise of Agiorgitiko-Cabernet Sauvignon blends, which are non-appellation wines; Cabernet adds firmness to Agiorgitiko’s characteristic soft texture.
Regardless of style, all Agiorgitiko wines share common threads—an intense and pure character, charming aromas and flavors, a fresh palate, and graceful texture— which together make every single expression of the variety easy to embrace. Agiorgitiko has the uncanny ability to communicate with equal ease to wine drinkers of every ilk, from neophytes to sophisticated connoisseurs to fierce critics.
A DIVERSE APPELLATION
The huge diversity of wine styles is not only a reflection of individual vintners’ styles and philosophies but also of the physical diversities within the Nemea appellation itself. Sheer size commands such diversity. Nemea, with almost
2.300 hectares (5,750 acres) under vine, is the largest, most important red wine appellation in Greece.
The area can be divided into three zones. The first and the hottest is the valley floor, which for many vintners is too hot to produce interesting, modern wines; the valley wines tend to be alcoholic and rustic. The second zone is arguably the most desirable. It is here, among the appellation’s slopes, which lie between 450 to 650 meters (1350 to 1950) in altitude, that Nemea’s most popular wines are produced, both in the traditional and modern styles. The wines produced in these rolling hills are what put Nemea in the forefront of the Greek wine world and what make it arguably one of the most interesting regions in Europe.
Finally, there are the upper, cooler parts of the appellation, reaching up to 900 meters (2,700 feet).
Traditionally, these high-altitude spots were thought too cold to make anything apart from rose wines, but more and more of the region’s winemakers are trying to exploit these cool-climate parcels in the attempt to produce elegant, more sophisticated, even if less powerful, Nemeas.
CLIMATE AND HARVEST
The region’s weather and climate shape the region’s complexities as much, if not more so, than the actual lay of the land. Nemea has a relatively typical Mediterranean climate, with mild winters, short springs, warm to hot summers (with several days topping 40° C/104°F), and long autumns. Yet despite predictable Mediterranean weather, the vintages vary tremendously from year to year, not in terms of variations in quality but as stylistic disparities. In Nemea, grapes usually reach their full maturity; nonetheless the balances of elements (acidity, alcohol, aromas, tannins, color, etc) that constitute ripeness vary from vintage to vintage.
The most difficult year in recent memory was the rain-sodden 2002—the most horrific vintage in Europe in 50 years—where no appellation wine was produced.
The 2003 Nemea vintage was marked by the exotic character of the wines. The wines of 2000 and 2005 were marked by their power, while those from the 2001 and 2004 vintages by their austerity. Nemea vintages are hard to predict for another reason, too. The region’s harvest is unusually long, starting after September 15th and often spanning 40 days, a rare thing for appellations that have only one variety and unique in Greece. It stands to reason that the wines from the lowlands where harvesting begins early are very different from those made with grapes picked in October.
FUTURE NEMEA
Greece’s most promising vineyard has matured to a critical point. For most producers in the region, the way forward must include the development of sub-appellations within the general area, or the establishment of crus.
It is a given that certain villages, with certain soils and certain meso-climates, produce wines with specific personalities. For example, Koutsi, one of the most famous villages, has an impressive limestone soil and produces full throttle wines. At the same latitude, the stony soils of Gymno give wines with more austere character.
The high altitude Asprokambos, with its red clay soil produces wines that can be equally impressive but much higher in acid and brighter in fruit than those of Koutsi and Gymno respectively.
Within Nemea, there are advocates on both sides of the cru issue. Many growers declare that the introduction of crus will strengthen the image of Nemea in Greece and abroad, but others say that the best wines will come from cross-blending the grapes of the different areas within the appellation. For them the possibility of a crus system feeds the fears that dividing the region into chunks will confuse consumers and take the heart of the Nemea. Opponents to the cru system say that the region should invest its all in making Nemea a large brand. The future of Nemea is being debated at the legislational level. Who’s to say which path will finally win the day? One thing is certain, however: Top wines are and will continue to be produced either way in Nemea.
A WINE-LOVER’S NEMEA
Every September, when the heady scent of wines fermenting permeates the air, when the sun is still hot and the countryside bathed in early autumn light, Nemea’s winemakers throw a party. They call it the Wine Days of Nemea, a weekend-long event open to the public, during which almost every winery opens its cellar doors, offers vineyard tours, and participates in seminars on a whole range of wine-related subjects. The event is a reflection of what is perhaps the greatest strength of Nemea itself: its human resources.
Winemakers in the region have been particularly open and progressive, catching on early to the importance of wine-tourism. Nemea is also the only appellation in Greece that invites wine connoisseurs to an en primeur tasting to show their young wines just six months after harvest. They call it Progefsi Nemeas.
Wine tourism is a perfect fit for Nemea. The region is only a one-and-a-half hour drive from Athens and there is a lot to do beyond vineyard touring. The magnificent ancient theatre of Epidavros is a few minutes away; the exquisitely preserved ancient city of Mycenae is nearby.
The whole region overflows with ancient ruins.
But there is also cosmopolitan Nafplion, Greece’s first capital and a lovely seaside town, replete with fortresses, stone-paved, old, narrow streets, boutiques, galleries, museums, seaside cafes and more. If nature is more appealing than urbanity, the region has that to offer, too, with magnificent mountain ranges, beaches, and isolated villages all within easy reach.
Boutique hotels have sprung in Nafplion over the last decade, making accommodations easy, too, and several wineries have plans in the works to open adjoining guesthouses. The only thing that is still lagging here is a fine representation of the region’s local cuisine; tavernas and simple grill houses abound. There are rumors that at least two top Athenian chefs are planning to open haute Greek restaurants in the area.
NEMEA AND FOOD
Rosé Agiorgitiko is the perfect party wine and the perfect summer drink, but it’s also a great partner to the oil-rich vegetable dishes of the Peloponnese (and to those of other parts of the Mediterranean), leafy green salads or cooked wild greens.
The Agiorgitiko reds go well with meat. Young, fresh Agiorgitiko that has not been aged in oak matches well with a large variety of dishes, like meat balls in tomato sauce, pork, even moussaka. Braised meats and stews, such as rabbit—in Greece sweet with the addition of onions—are a perfect counter for the more tannic, oak-aged
Nemeas. More flamboyant Nemeas, with more tannins, more alcohol, and more evident oak, call for intense aromas, like lamb chops, especially charcoal grilled, or game.
A good Agiorgitiko can easily age for four years and keep for another four. These older wines possess a grace of flavors but also a good base structure of tannins. These pair well with simple grilled meats, like beef fillet, and go nicely with a whole array of yellow cheeses.
NEMEA’S HISTORICAL TIME LINE
The viticultural heritage of Nemea is one of the oldest in the world. The Peloponnese was one of the very first regions of what is now Europe where vines were cultivated specifically for wine production. In antiquity, Nemea’s wines were dubbed “lion’s blood,” after the first labor of Hercules, who slew a lion that terrorized locals.
However, Nemea was not as famous or commercially successful as the wines of other areas such as Santorini, Crete, and Monemvassia. Fame came to the Nemea vineyards in very recent times.
During the 1960s and the 1970s, the Nemea co-operative dominated both the local and national Greek wine scene. It was the largest supplier of good-quality, great-value red wine in Greece, but the wines were not marketed as Nemea. Instead, they were used as blending components by large negotiants who wanted to add a solid backbone to their large-volume brands. Even Italian and French wine traders bought Nemea’s reds for the same purpose, evincing the fact that Nemea was one of the best-kept secrets in the Mediterranean.
In the mid 1980s, the scene began to change decisively as small producers and boutique wineries emerged.
Some had been growers and/or producers for many years, but on a small scale. Others were newcomers and visionaries who saw the region’s excellent potential. Their wines differed from those of traditional local vintners in a crucial way:
The bottlings were small and the wines hand-crafted, because these producers wanted to make a national statement, offering their own, individual interpretation of Nemea and, by extension, proof of the wines’ superb quality. Nemea began to excite producers, traders, and wine lovers.
Today, the industry in Nemea is maturing, although the limits are sky-high.
The Nemea Appellation of Origin of High Quality (Onomasia Proelefseos Anoteras Poiotitas, or O.P.A.P., as defined by the Greek Wine Legislation) wines have caught the attention of many international sommeliers, wine buyers, and journalists. The wines have gotten top accolades in prestigious wine competitions in London and New York. More and more non-Greek restaurants across the world have Nemea wines on their lists.
Today, Nemea’s wine production is multi-faceted and complex. Boutique wineries now work together with large establishments to produce value-oriented brands, destined to compete in the global marketplace. Small vineyards resemble the Burgundian archetype of vignerons, artisan growers and producers, and promote their appellation next to those of wineries with Spielbergian grandeur, themselves the fruit of high-profile investments. In Nemea nowadays you can find any type of wine cellar, a vast range of wine-making philosophies, from ultra-traditional to the post-modern, and an undeniable array of excellent wines. Nemea is no longer a secret.
by Konstantinos Lazarakis
Wine consultant and writer Konstantinos Lazarakis became Greece’s first Master of Wine in 2002. His book, The Wines of Greece, Mitchell Beazley, London, was short-listed for the André Simon Memorial Award in 2006.
source: KERASMA
