A conversation in struggling Greece is, often as not, about the
superlatives of doom: The country is on the edge, the people are headed
toward catastrophe, and the state, drained of cash and lasting political
consensus, has effectively ceased to function. Yet in Athens,
home to nearly half the population, the garbage trucks make the rounds
at night, traffic police in smart blue uniforms pull over motorists and
tourists stroll around the ancient sites or lug suitcases on wheels
through the heat-soaked side-streets.